The Age Of The Cheap Fashion Stunt
Why the Collina Strada NYFW show falls flat
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Editor’s Letter, 13/02/2023 by Molly Elizabeth Agnew
PR stunts have forever been at the heart of the fashion industry (well, most industries really). Need a little extra push to boost sales? Use the powers that be to make sure your piece is seen on a trending celebrity. Trying to recover in the aftermath of a global controversy? Dip your toes into philanthropy (ehem, Balenciaga). Every single fashion brand, luxury or the on high street, will utilise the power of the press, how they go about doing so, however, is what differs.
Once upon a time, PR stunts could be cleverly masterminded to seem authentic, yet in 2023 as New York Fashion Week kicks off a month of runway shows, audiences seem to be catching on to the tricks of the trade. What has seemingly changed? Are audiences really more perceptive, or are brands just getting lazy in hopes of clicks?
Arguably one of the most exalted fashion moments of 2022 was the Coperni Spring/Summer 2023 show at Paris Fashion Week. A nearly nude Bella Hadid was sprayed in a liquid fibre which solidified to form a figure-hugging white dress. The show was designed to showcase the marriage of fashion and technology, specifically the technological advancements of the company Fabrican which created the fibre used. Unsurprisingly, the moment caught instant online virality. Many, myself included, saw the importance of this show in future fashion history, whereas others were quick to call it unoriginal and a gimmick. Yes, this is not the first, nor will it be the last, instance of clothes being constructed or deconstructed on the runway itself. It evoked memories of the beloved Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 1999 runway where two robotic arms spray painted a white dress worn by a rotating Shalom Harlow. Many also bought Frederik Tjærandsen's CSM graduate collection where giant balloons deflated onto the models, creating the garments. Each of these examples sought to illustrate the future possibilities within garment creation, and while they all achieved fame in their own rights, it is clear that the aims were pure.
The current viral talking point of the fashion world is the Collina Strada Fall/Winter 2023 show that took place at New York Fashion Week. The response has been less than positive, in fact, it's been scathing. Creative director Hillary Taymour made headlines as she sent models down the runway wearing animal prosthetics. Entitled ‘Please Don’t Eat My Friends’, the show was designed to ignite discussion surrounding veganism, and yet all anyone is talking about is how creepy the prosthetics looked and the model who galloped like a horse. Unwieldy and frankly embarrassing, the video went viral across Twitter, TikTok and Instagram instantaneously, with many questioning whether this specific action was a planned stunt. In light of this performance only taking place in front of a specific sect of the crowd, seemingly the invited content creators, one can safely assume it was an attempt to generate brand attention. Undeniably, it’s bought the brand attention. Has it bought the right sort of attention? It is difficult to come across one journalist or fashion enthusiast online articulating their opinions about the actual items of clothing shown. Collina Strada will be known as the brand that made a model pretending to be a horse, how long this will stick with them is yet unknown, however.
The first clear stunt of the year took place at the (Di)Vision FW23 show at Copenhagen Fashion Week. To close out the show, a model stood up from one of the tables (the guests were placed on round restaurant-style tables with white tablecloths). As she took a stride forward it was revealed that her dress was in fact attached to the tablecloth. Walking forward further she swept the cutlery and plates off the table along with her. Of course, the moment also went instantly viral online. However, while this particular stunt had less of an element of cringe, many still struggled to see the point of such a performance. What was it offering? What was the message? It failed to demonstrate a piece of clothing, and the clothing worn was seen by many as poorly constructed. It was just another cheap fashion stunt.
The clear and monumental success of the Coperni show has sparked an onslaught of fashion houses attempting to replicate such triumph. What many seem to lack is the ability to understand the reasons why the Coperni show gained such traction. It wasn’t because it was just another PR stunt to get people talking, it’s because it put fashion first. Regrettably, we seem to be in for a year of fashion houses putting fashion at the bottom of their to-do lists.