So, WTF Happened In Fashion In The Past Month?
New York, London, Milan & Paris FW23...It's Been A Lot!
This Editor’s Letter is, and will remain, free to view by all, however, future pieces will be available to paid subscribers only.
Editor’s Letter, 07/03/2023 by Molly Elizabeth Agnew
And so, just like that, another season of scrolling Vogue Runway, staring at a dizzying amount of outfits, travelling across four countries (for those lucky enough to get that opportunity) and general delirium comes to an end. Another fashion month has loved us and left us with an array of emotions. We have laughed, we have cried and, on more than several occasions, felt utterly discombobulated. That’s the beauty of this rollercoaster we place ourselves on twice a year. We lap up the highs and sit and complain on social media about the lows, however, deep down, we love every single aspect. It’s what makes this industry captivating. Without heading down a ‘writing a love letter to fashion’ rabbit hole, it’s almost guaranteed that we’ve all forgotten a lot that has taken place over the last four (and a bit) weeks from New York to London to Milan to Paris.
There is perhaps something to be said of fashion month becoming rather over-done, with even the most adept fashion journalist now struggling to keep up to date with the most popular of shows, let alone the emerging fashion houses. The entire premise is now a whiplash generator inducing headaches and an entire industry of burnt-out writers, commentators, photographers and designers. Although, this is definitely a conversation for another time (when we all have more brain bandwidth to take it on!)
In the hopes of quelling any migraine, here’s, hopefully, a useful breakdown of almost everything (it’s literally physically impossible to cover everything) that has happened in a cool, calm and collected manner. For maximum effect put on some of your favourite grounding music, a mug of tea or coffee and nosh on a delicious snack.
Into the trenches, we go!
Gimme! Gimmie! Gimmie! (Another Bloody Gimmick)
Ever since Coperni’s Spring/Summer 2023 performance featuring Bella Hadid and a spray-on dress (that was beautiful, just to add) there has been one word floating around. Gimmick.
Countless fashion houses have since sought to replicate the virality of this moment. The problem is, however, that many are only seeking clicks instead of presenting an idea of real merit. There have, frankly, been so many it’s been hard to keep up!
Collina Strada, NYFW
Creative director Hillary Taymour made headlines as she sent models down the runway wearing animal prosthetics. Entitled ‘Please Don’t Eat My Friends’, the show was designed to ignite discussion surrounding veganism, and yet all anyone is talking about is how creepy the prosthetics looked and the model who galloped like a horse. Unwieldy and frankly embarrassing, the video went viral across Twitter, TikTok and Instagram instantaneously, with many questioning whether this specific action was a planned stunt. In light of this performance only taking place in front of a specific sect of the crowd, seemingly the invited content creators, one can safely assume it was an attempt to generate brand attention. It is difficult to come across one journalist or fashion enthusiast online articulating their opinions about the actual items of clothing shown. Collina Strada will be known as the brand that made a model pretending to be a horse, how long this will stick with them is yet unknown, however.
Sunnei, MFW
Sunnei caught traction last season when they presented a show featuring twins on the same day Gucci did in Milan. This year, they ditched the twins and instead went crowd surfing. The collection, modelled by the brand’s designers and extended team members, was bold and experimented successfully with textiles. However, the main talking point was the model's trust in their audience, walking to the end of the short runway, turning around and dropping down into their arms a la rock concert. While, unsurprisingly, clips of the show did the rounds on social media, it was a delightful and inventful way to pay tribute and place attention to those who put their heart and souls into their work.
Avavav, MFW
“Why is luxury so serious?” pondered Avavav creative director Beate Karlsson. Breaking apart in motion, the ‘Fake it till you break it’ collection was a cleverly constructed (both physically and metaphorically) commentary on the fashion industry's relationship with the rules of luxury and elitism. “What is the most embarrassing thing that can happen to a fashion house? I figured garments breaking might be it.”
Heliot Emil, PFW
Well, it’s not every day you see a model on fire down the runway (probably because the paperwork would drive you around the bend.) However, the Heliot Emil team didn’t seem to mind all the health and safety rigmarole for their FW23 presentation. The actual ensemble, of course, all fire-proof, seems simple at first glance, but on closer inspection is a masterful compilation of hardware motifs. Although, one could wonder why they needed to light someone on fire, whatever floats your boat!
Anrealage, PFW
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This new show was not the first, nor will it likely be the last, time that designer Kunihiko Morinaga has chosen to experiment with colour-changing photochromic properties and explore the connection between fashion and technology. As models arrive on the stage wearing beautifully tailored coats two UV-emitting tubes were passed up and down the models and, as the light passed in front of the items of clothing, their pattern was revealed to the audience. The garments went through a transformation in front of the audience's very eyes. Seemingly, not everything was going to be as they had anticipated. The show raises questions on how we really interpret and perceive fashion, the clothes we wear and our relationship with them.
Coperni, PFW
Let’s bring it full circle, shall we? It’s hard to know whether you should attempt to one-up your last viral performance or just leave it to rest. Coperni decided to try once more, this time with robots. With commentary around man’s relationship with technology, the premise was a good one. It was just a shame that the accompanying outfits left much to be desired.
Welcome To The Fashion Parade (The Debuts)
It is always a special moment to witness a designer or fashion house debut on the fashion runway circuit. Undoubtedly terrifying for all involved, a debut can either make or break a career. After all, first impressions are important!
Nina Ricci x Harris Reed, PFW
It’s not often a designer can say they showed in two separate cities for two separate brands during fashion month, however, it would be true for Harris Reed. After monumental success during London Fashion Week with his eponymous label (which featured Florence Pugh giving a delightful monologue), all eyes were on Reed’s launch as the latest creative director of Nina Ricci. While praise must be given to Reed for featuring a myriad of plus-size models on his runway and never shying away from placing them in beautiful garments, the collection didn’t hit for everyone. Known for creating larger-than-life, one-of-a-kind pieces of art for his own fashion house, many were anticipating a new side of Reed. His ability to design wearable and less intense garments. Alas, one could easily mistake this Nina Ricci collection for any Harris Reed one, proving that not all designers can compartmentalise with ease.
Ann Demeulemeester x Ludovic de Saint Sernin, PFW
On the other end of the spectrum, Lodovic de Saint Sernin demonstrated how to skillfully design two houses at once without confusion. To help limit bringing too much of his own brand’s identity into his debut, Sernin relied on archive Demeuelemeester to fuel his inauguration. While he didn’t necessarily offer audiences anything groundbreaking, his attachment to the house is likely to attract a new, younger generation already familiar with Sernin’s sensual creations.
Gyouree Kim, LFW
Already designing costumes for Sam Smith music videos and with over five years of technical garment-making experience to her name, Gyouree Kim is one to watch over the next coming years. Inspired by historical silhouettes and architecture, all of her designs have a coherent focus on structure, with most of her ensembles featuring a form of corset inspired by 18th-century stays. Looking to limit waste in the production process, Gyouree Kim looks to utilise deadstock fabrics where possible. (On a personal note, I attended this show and sat in awe throughout the entire performance. It was sheer perfection.)
The Is It Cake-Ification of Fashion
It’s not often that you find yourself confusing a white leather tank top for, well, a plain white cotton tank top. The eye will always seek out the rational, and when faced with what seems to be a pair of denim jeans one will, rightly so, assume that it’s just an innocent pair of blue denim jeans.
Bottega Veneta, MFW
Matthieu Blazy once again pulled together a grouping of ensembles that have one clear unifier even though most looks are distinctly different from each other with Blazy seeking to create as many fashion characters as possible. From the final look, a simple pair of denim jeans and a white tank made entirely from leather to a pair of slippers which should, logically, be created from wool but is instead also created out of leather.
Diesel, MFW
Glenn Martens has proven time and time again that his Diesel will always put denim first, and his Fall/Winter collection was no different. Clearly produced with the intent to spark conversation, the show was overseen by 200,000 boxes of Durex condoms. The other conversation sparked? His continually innovative use of denim. Among a myriad of oversized knitwear and vinyl jackets and matching skirts were denim pieces which invited the eye to think outside the box. Can a denim dress really melt away into the skin? Turns out that if you use thin enough denim and carefully insert panels of mesh it certainly can!
Alexander McQueen, PFW
Sticking with leather, because boy oh boy is that a major trend currently, Sarah Burton too went with the ‘aha this isn’t what you thought it was’ train of thought. After showing their FW23 collection in Paris, a video shared online showed that one of the crisp white shirts on display was, in fact, made out of leather.
In Memorium
The last two years have seen grief and loss hit the fashion community from Thierry Mugler to André Leon Talley. However, two recent passings had a major impact on this year’s Paris Fashion Week.
Vivienne Westwood, PFW
The unexpected passing of Vivienne Westwood in December last year shook the fashion industry, resulting in a colossal outpouring of not only grief but love and thanks. Love and thanks were most expertly on display at the FW23 show designed by Vivienne’s husband Andreas Kronthaler. His show notes said everything that needed to be said, “In everything we will show, I thought of you and where you came from, from the North of England…The petticoat skirts which were your absolute favourite. I’ve made some for you, all different, they’re gorgeous, so pretty, so girly, so woman, so really woman. I used some of our antique fabrics that we collected together to give them a new life, I hope you don’t mind.”
As Vivienne’s granddaughter Cora Corre closed the show in the bridal look, there was not a dry eye in the house.
Paco Rabanne, PFW
Presenting a full collection less than a month after the passing of your fashion house’s founder is not an easy task. However, Julien Dossena paid homage to, and thanked, Rabanne for his groundbreaking and radical artistry. It was only fair that the show close with five archive pieces featuring Rabanne’s signature metallic flair.
Oh, We Almost Forgot, Fashion Weeks Start Trends
With so much chatter around, well, not clothes, it’s easy to forget one of the main points of even having fashion weeks. Trends! With the trend cycle now as short as a dachshund, it’s not always so simple to identify up-and-coming fashion movements, but there was a handful.
Blue-Grey Is In
Recession core is in full swing and, as part of that, so are neutrals. When you get bored of black-and-white tones, what do you turn to? That’s right, grey is the new black and showed itself everywhere this season. The Rokh collection in Paris saw varying shades of grey, often with a blue tinge, across multiple skirts and dresses. Nowhere was the colour more prevalent than at Ferragamo. Apart from the odd smattering of red and bold yellow, the entire collection was comprised of black, white, brown and grey!
Post War Chic
Without going on a vast tangent about current economic stability being linked to fashion trends, it would seem that designers are taking more and more inspiration from the 1950s. Aka, a time when we had just come out of some economic crap and were striving to live it large with silhouettes (Thanks Christian Dior). Maria Grazia Chiuri took the house of Dior right back to its iconic ‘new look’ silhouette. Olivier Rousteing of Balmain aspired to pay tribute to the legacy of Pierre Balmain with a collection that spanned the many decades of Balmain’s 78 years. Daniel Roseberry too succeeded in this area at Schiaparelli, but when does he not?
Climate Change Eradicates The Cold
This was a fall/autumn/winter season of fashion month. One expects long dresses, blazers, coats and trousers. Not…shorts?! Don’t worry, Virginie Viard doesn’t want you to catch hypothermia so you can totally wear tights under your inordinately expensive Chanel shorts, but nonetheless, you will be wearing shorts. Of course, Miuccia Prada didn’t shy away from anything short this season, putting a focus on bedazzled briefs instead of Miu Miu’s now iconic mini skirt.
Hang On, Climate Change Didn’t Eradicat The Cold?
Look, whether you’re dressing appropriately for the weather depends solely on the designer…and what the weather is actually like where you are. Fear not, big solid winter coats were not missing from this year's runways. Heck, even Miu Miu had quite the selection so it’s really your decision! Simone Rocha, Tove, Alberta Ferretti, Max Mara, Saint Laurent and The Row all had some excellent pieces.
It’s nigh on impossible to cover everything, especially when all fashion watchers have different niches of interest, however, I do hope this has helped in some small way. While fashion month may be over for now, here are some dates for the rest of 2023 to pop into your diary so you don’t miss out on all the never-ending fuss!
New York Bridal Week: April 11th-13th
The Met Gala: May 1st
Men’s London Fashion Week: June 10th-12th
Men’s Milan Fashion Week: June 16th-20th
Men’s Paris Fashion Week: June 20th-25th
Couture Fashion Week: July 3rd-6th